Vancouver - Sea to Snow via an Underbelly

We arrived late on a Saturday night, a bit worse for wear from a flight from London via a 4 hour lay-over in Seattle. I was surprised the kids were still even half functioning after effectively the longest day of their lives (full 32 hour day with the time change). 

Through the tiredness I just about took in the remarkable view of Downtown Vancouver at night as we crossed Grenville bridge. A metal and glass forest of apartment blocks, lit-up and showing off the affluence of the city. 

Collapsing, we awoke to the prospect of half a month travelling around British Colombia and Alberta. From the Pacific, to the Rockies and beyond. Adventure beckoned!

First impressions and Stanley Park 

Waking early with the jet-lag, we left our Downtown apartment on Nelson and Burrell and headed in the rough direction of Stanley Park, renowned for being one of the best urban parks on the globe. 

Sunday morning at 7am is a distinctly odd time to first encounter a city. Downtown had a slight feeling of Canary Wharf, so empty and almost desolate. As we meandered our way West, the city slowly awoke, hungover people scrambling for coffee.

 

Getting away from the commercial district, Downtown took on more character, though I did not understand why people wax lyrical so much about Vancouver until we hit the water. Emerging on Coal Harbor, we were treated to a view beyond the boats of bay, forests and cloud topped mountains. To cap it all off, sea planes circled down to skid stop on the water.

Most of the rest of the day was spent exploring this coastline and vistas. First by foot and then by cycle. We hired the bikes where the city stops and the park begins (Ariadne on a trailer attached to Chris’ bike to make a tandem). The park was of course Stanley Park. Often said to be the best urban park in the world. Some 1000 acres of forest and parkland, jutting out into the sea.

 

We cycled 15km all in all around the sea wall, stopping off to admire totem poles, spot a seal, admire the views and pick up Niko after a fall. A diversion in land took us through the temperate rain forest to a lake, where we saw a whole lot of avian fair, including a couple of blue cranes busy frog fishing. Mildly alien yellow skunk cabbages grew from the bogs and no less than 3 types of squirrel crossed our path. A special place.

 

We ended the day with an exploration of the impressive Vancouver Aquarium. It was great to see the concentration on local wildlife, including rockfish, jellies, a white sided dolphin and even a couple of Stella sealions (more on them later…). The latter two species being kept in large part for research purposes, helping people understand the animals and, hopefully, protect them.

Markets, museums and the under belly

On our second morning, the clouds lifted, revealing the full mountainous northern skyline. It made the views even better, and as I crossing the elevated Grenville bridge with Ariadne on my shoulders, I could not help but keep spinning round to look back on the high rise of Downtown reaching up to the mountains.

 

We had a nice schmooze around Grenville market - it had the feel of Borough Market in London, but cooler and with better food - before jumping on a boat across False Creek to the BC Sports Hall of Fame. Buried in a stand of the city stadium, it exceeded expectations, chocked full of sporting memorabilia from the Vancouver Olympics and a hundred other events. 

 

Most importantly, it had a trial sports room, which entertained the small ones with a climbing wall, racing track and HOCKEY!

 

On our walk through to the not particularly impressive China Town and Gas Town, we has a little surprise. We accidently transversed the most deprived area in Canada – the Downtown East Side. For only a couple of blocks, squeaky clean Vancouver turned into a sketchy place. The first guy we past was sitting drinking covered in his own vomit. Others gave us a stare of ‘what are you doing here?’ One guy we walked straight past had his trousers down, shooting up at the bus stop. It was not a place I wanted to be with my kids. We walked fast and firm out of there.

A block later everything was sanitized again. It never ceases to amaze me how much poverty is on open show in North America just next to huge wealth. I have seen this many time in the USA, but, if I am honest, I did not expect to see it in Canada. Looking into it after, I found out that despite its wealth, Vancouver has a large drugs and homeless problem. One reasons for this is its comparatively mild climate. In brutal terms, people can survive outside like this in the winter there in a way that is simply not possible in the other big Canadian cities that freeze over.

First Nations and a colossal skeleton at BCU

We spent our final morning in Vancouver heading back out of Downtown, through Kitsilano on the bus to the massive campus of University of British Columbia (UBC). On our way the high rise gave way to pretty suburbs with great bay views. We were headed this way primarily to visit the Museum of Anthropology. 

 

In BC, I was keen to learn more about the First Nations heritage. Around the world I have found such a wide range of levels of respect for aboriginal peoples in ex-European colonies, with the average level being pretty damn low. I did not know what to expect from Canada in this regard, but if the Museum of Anthropology is anything to go by, it is better than most.

 

The place was remarkable. So many fascinating artifacts from the numerous different tribes who flourished in this region pre-European settlement, and still reside in many places. Masks, canoes, all kinds of intricate weaved goods and implements. Then there were the totem poles and array of carved animals. It was so very impressive. Giant, beautiful carvings of animals and other creations perched upon each other. We all loved it and, indeed, it was clearly a place exhibited with a lot of love. I recommend it very highly.

 

The campus itself was cool to walk around. Vast and welcoming, with views out over the ocean. It is also home to the Beaty Biodiversity Museum, where I go to watch the boys gawp at the sight of a fully grown blue whale skeleton. 

A mountainous gift

My uncle has put us in touch with family connections in Vancouver, sisters Helen and Clare, and the rest of our final day in Vancouver was spent under their wing. They picked us up in two cars, with two of their grandkids in tow as well, and took us up and out of the city towards the mountains.

The views back over the city were awesome, looking back from the Lions Gate bridge and then the view points as we climbed into Northern Vancouver.

 

Helen and Clare were taking us to a very special place. Less than an hour after leaving Downtown, we were pulling up at the end of the road in a forested snow-scape. Dressed up as warm as we could, and leant ski poles for balance, we trekked off through the trees. It took us half an hour wandering up barely marked paths (I am so glad we were being guided) over snow and ice through massive fur and conifer. This was Cypress Mountain and we were heading to remnants of time past.

 

The sisters lease one of the remaining mountain huts, built high up on the mountain side the best part of a century ago by adventurous Vancouver folk seeking an escape. No power lines, running water, roads, drains or even mobile signal. A wild place. When we reached the hut, what greeted us was a simple, beautiful wooden lodge, built high above the April snow line (as the snow can be several meters thick). Heated by a wood stove, cozy as hell, with outside loo pit to boot. While we drank wine and ate smoked salmon, our kids played with their Canadian contemporaries, building a snow fort and generally mucking about. 

I could barely believe we were in such an amazing, remote-feeling paradise so close to the city.

 

Before dark set in we sadly left, making our way back through the deep snow (I had to repeatedly pull my leg out from sink holes in the snow). It was a phenomenal experience and I am so thankful to Helen and Clare for sharing it with us.

Until next time

Year’s ago my mum visited Vancouver and, on retuning, told me I was not allowed to go there. She feared I would so like the place that I would not leave. Having now been there, I see why. Like any city, it has its issues, but the place is clearly awesome.

 

Next up Vancouver Island in search of whales and bears!