Palermo Treasures - Sicily (Part 4)

Part of the draw of circumnavigating Sicily, was to explore the different faces of this fascinating island. It was therefore essential that we stopped by in the capital, largest city and melting pot of people’s past and present – Palermo.

 

Everyone and his dog had warned us about the mad cap driving in Palermo. We were not disappointed, with cars and mopeds winding in and out of us on the road in to the centre, where we met narrow packed streets, honking horns and, on one occasion, street urchins joyriding a moped right past us, wheelie and all. It was a minor miracle that we arrived unscathed and found some where to park. That somewhere was the tightest space I have ever parked in on a dodgy looking back street, but, fortunately, a shop teller opposite laughed at how long it took me to park and promised to watch the motor for us.

FOR RICHER FOR POORER

Palermo is not a rich city, but it contains many treasures. Walking towards the historic centre through high, narrow, dirty alleys, it immediately reminded me of umpteen Latin American cities. Semi-grand buildings that had seen better days. Washing hanging out the windows between damp walls and chipped stucco. Street noises and kids playing football. The hot smell of pollution.

 

That may sound like a negative description, but for me it was immediately alluring. From experience, these kinds of places are full of interest, excitement and passion.

The comparison to Latin America is not just coincidence. Spaniards ruled Sicily on and off for centuries, right down to when Palermo was a twin capital of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies (along with Naples). The influence can be seen in the density of imposing ornate baroque churches. The most impressive sites are though of older stock and this is where unique riches lie.

NORMAN PHENOMENA

It may come as a surprise that at almost exactly the same time (well, OK, two years later) as a famous Norman by the name of William was invading England, another Norman, named Roger, was invading Sicily. His dynasty reached heights of sophistication rarely touched in medieval Europe.

A driver of this cultural blossoming, was the broad variety of different cultures in situ in Sicily. Amongst others, there were Arabs, Byzantine Greeks and, of course, the Normans themselves. Against the tide of an age, the Norman kings embraced these different cultures with open mind, drawing on the talents of each culture in terms of learning, philosophy and architecture.

This can be seen in the almost Python’esque named "Book of Roger" (check it out). For its time, a world map of unparalleled accuracy and beauty, created through the patronage of King Roger and the brilliance of Al-Idrisi, an Arab. This was a product of one of the great courts of medieval Europe. A cultural flourish built on familiar Norman military prominence.

The architectural legacy is arguably even more impressive. As a first port of call, we visited the Norman Cathedral. From the outside, it is an imposing and fascinating building. Combining Byzantine Domes, Gothic buttresses and touches of Moorish decoration. Unfortunately the inside is less interesting, with a later make-over which masks much of the original style, but down in the crypt the original Norman remains.

After that, we visited the most famous site in the city. Situated in the Palazzo Reale, which is itself no slouch in terms of interest and architecture, is the Cappella Palatina (the Palatine Chapel). This place is a wonder of the world. 

At its heart it is a Byzantine church, with glittering mosaics beyond any I have seen. This is then enhanced with delicate Norman stone carving and simply beautiful Arabic wood carving. It is both surprising and inspiring at every turn. I was spellbound and had to be dragged away in the interest of stopping the kids climbing the walls.

 

Getting on for 900 years after it was commissioned by Roger II, the Cappella Palatina is testament to the enlightenment of Norman Sicily and the enduring benefits of reaching out to and fusing with cultures beyond our own.

INTEREST AT EVERY TURN

We spent the rest of the day pushing the pram around street after back street, discovering new sights sounds and smells (not all pleasant) at each turn. It was great to just get a little lost in the city, stumbling from dilapidated area to grand area and back again, and right through two bustling markets. 

 

The first was for food of every description, the second for cloth and clothes. The kids loved this bit, meandering in and out of different stalls and getting a first grip on capitalism (finite funds in their hands but seemingly infinite amount of things to spend it on).

 

We were also pleased to discover that Palermo does gelato as good as any Italian city (as far as I can tell) and devoured the ice cream in the shadow of what we discovered was an old mosque. Palermo really is a city full of surprises. 

Out on our feet with the day at its end, we made it back to our protected car. The smiling shop teller wished us well and gifted the children some sweets. A nice end to a great day in the city. I got a taste of it and I want more, perhaps in the form of Palermo's Nuttier sister... Next year Napoli?

Castles in the Sky and Theatres on High - Sicily (Part 3)

We arrived in Scopello at dusk, struggling against what appeared to be a mad sat-nav to find our apartment. The damn thing kept telling us to zig zag back and forth and re-corrected itself at every other turn. We found ourselves back in the small village square twice before finally figuring out that it wanted us to turn out the village onto a rough track heading up the steep hill. This soon turned into a dirt track full of rivets, holes, mini canyons and drops. Now in darkness, we wound our way up and up, guessing the turns and increasingly unsure of what we were doing.

Against our instinct and the recommended capabilities of our rented Fiat 500, we pushed on for over a kilometre at a snail’s pace, took a final left and arrived at our home for the next 5 nights - Casale Corcella. It proved to be a remarkable little corner of the world.

We were greeted by Marco, the owner of the small collection of stone buildings who, along with his Labrador, was a warm host. Knackered, we knocked out, to awake in the morning and immediately realise that the tortuous drive had been worth it.

Stepping out our door, the view smacked us in the face. We were much higher than I had realised. Situated on a crest with cliffs behind and below, falling to flower strewn slopes and the terracotta roofs of the village proper. Beyond that was Castellammare del Golfo, an expanse of water sparkling in the morning sunlight. Its long arc only broken once, by a narrow peninsular beneath us, capped by a crumbling tower. Jaw dropping.

To cap it all off, fresh orange juice and breakfast were waiting for us on the cliff side patio with the aforementioned vista for back drop. It is fair to say we were pleased with ourselves.

ERICE

It took some effort to drag ourselves away from our temporary home, but we managed for a day trip to the fortified town of Erice. As a well preserved (if touristy) old town, it proved interesting to walk around, clambering up bell towers and getting lost in side alleys, but it is the setting that took the biscuit.

Erice sits atop a 750m high mountain. An impenetrable fortress, combining sheer cliffs on each side with high walls, fortified gates and a castle atop. The only road up is so twisty that one of my kids discovered the inside of their stomach before we reached the top.

The views from the top are like nothing I have ever seen. On a clear day like the one of our visit, you can see for what must be 50 kms. Sicily itself switching from mountains in the north, through hills, to salt flats in the south. The Mediterranean surrounding on two sides, punctured by mountainous islands to the west. You have to see it to believe it.

In terms of history, Erice is one of those places which gives more with each scratch. Beneath the medieval battlements are remains of Phoenician walls. Within the remains of the Norman castle, which clings to high point of the mount, are fragments of the Temple of Venus, where travellers reportedly came from all over the ancient world to revel in ceremonies of legendary disrepute.

It is in the latter place that my son gave me an odd memory. A three year announcing he is desperate for the toilet at the most inopportune time - nowhere near facilities on the crumbling ramparts overlooking a 500m vertical cliff – finding an unseen corner for him to do his business while looking over said cliff and the boy then demanding “Daddy, make my poo fly”. I had little other choice.

ANCIENT SEGESTA

On returning from Erice Chris unfortunately came down with a nasty bug which left her bed bound for the next day or so. I was therefore left with three kids to entertain. What better way than to find more ancient sites to scramble over…

Within an hour’s drive of Scopello are the remains of Segesta. Originally an Elymian settlement, one of the original peoples of Sicily, who were Hellenised by Ionian Greeks and ended up leaving to the world some phenomenal very Greek looking architecture.

On arriving, we did not have to walk far to find one of two highlights of the Segesta. A large and well preserve Doric temple, dating from approx. 420 BC. The temple is very impressive and, when we visited in April, set in fields of wild flowers, giving way to dramatic hills.

Being given many a look of sympathy and surprise by other tourists seeing me with one kid in my backpack, one on my shoulders and the other hand in hand, we explored the site and surrounds and then jumped on a rickety bus to take us to the top of one of those dramatic hills. At the top was the other highlight of Segesta, the ancient theatre.

Carved out of the rock into a perfect high-banked semi-circle, it opens out to a remarkable view. So remarkable in fact that I wonder how the audience in ancient times could drag their eyes from the view to concentrate on whatever play was performing.

The kids loved scrambling around the steps and searching for lizards. I did my best to stop a 4 year old, 3 year old and 1 year old from smashing against ancient marble or falling off an unfortunate edge. A real adventure in a very special place.

SCOPELLO AND ZINGARO

Thankfully Chris recovered to ease the more difficult side of the adventure and we spent a couple of days exploring Scopello.

The village itself was lovely. In spring it is slow moving and full of charm. Locals sitting outside on the street watching the world go by. Small eateries, arranged around a courtyard shaded by old trees. Great views up to the tower and down to the grand building of the old tuna factory and sea beyond.

Taking the northern coast road out of Scopello, we soon found even more stunning coast and no more road. This was the entrance to Zingaro nature reserve. A wild, wonderful haven, stretching up the steep cliffs and coastline of San Vito Lo Capello.

This place has been protected since the early 1980s (in a successful attempt to save the Bonelli’s eagle) and is only crossed by a couple of narrow trails which streak along the hillside, occasionally dropping down to one of the unspoiled beaches.

We made sure we were suitably provisioned up with food and water, put the little one in the backpack, held the hands of the other two and set off on the main trail. It was stunning. Yes, the views of the sea, cliffs and beaches were phenomenal, but the minutiae was equally great. Flowers and insects were everywhere as well as literally hundreds of small lizards (I know, my eldest counted everyone we saw).

This was fortunate as we had to spend much of our time looking down, making sure we did not trip on the rocky terrain or take a slip off many a steep edge. We made it 5km before locating a particular beautiful white pebble beach and descended for lunch, some pebble play and, in my case, a chilly swim.

The walk back was equally stunning, and, in the case of two of my kids at least, not too strenuous, with the smallest one falling asleep in my backpack soon after we set off and the middle one succumbing somewhat closer to the end while on my shoulders.

Everyone was though awake again to see what looked very much like an eagle gliding overhead. This put the icing on the cake.

A great trek to end a great stay in Scopello. If you get the chance, go there. I certainly plan to visit again.